Via Apsyrtides





Going south from Ćunski, up until reaching the town of Mali Lošinj, the island of Lošinj narrows until all that is left is a chain of hills which, although not very tall, do a good job at protecting the wide port of Mali Lošinj from the wind. The hills closer to Ćunski are covered with olive groves and maquis shrubland, and those closer to Mali Lošinj are blanketed in tall pine forests, a “trademark” of Lošinj’s over 130-year-old tourist tradition. Despite its name, Mali Lošinj (“Little Lošinj”) is the largest town on the Croatian islands. It was built by the famed Lošinj seafarers, shipbuilders and shipowners. When “the golden age of sailing ships” ended in the late 19th century, their spacious houses were converted into hotels and bed and breakfasts for the Viennese aristocracy wishing to tend to their health in Lošinj’s healing (micro)climate.

  • 9.5 km
  • 60 m
  • LOWEST POINT : 0 m
  • DIFFICULTY: 9/10
  • DURATION: 4 h










The olive is one of the few agricultural crops capable of surviving without human intervention. As the local population was leaving, the old vineyards around Ćunski were abandoned for several decades before they were recently restored and replanted. The local olive varieties, “Lošinjska Oblica” and “Starovijerka”, were preserved, as well as “Torać”, the old olive mill in Ćunski, the last of its kind on the islands. Every autumn, the mill is brought back to life to cheerfully mill olives in the traditional way, operated by hands.

TOVAR (Monte Asino)

Tovar is a hill you won’t be climbing as it has been fenced off as a military “restricted area” for the past 160 years, ever since the Austro-Hungarian authorities built a large, and for the most part, buried fort at its top. The fort was built using rock brought up from the foot of the hill, as well as using the remains of the ancient hillfort which must have been constructed at such a strategically important location. For thousands of years Tovar has overlooked the south entrance to the town of Osor, as well as the only (natural) entrance to the wide port of Mali Lošinj, acting as a safe anchorage since ancient times.


The people of Lošinj get frustrated to hear someone say “on Mali Lošinj”, instead of “in Mali Lošinj”, as if it were an island, instead of a town. This confusion is caused by the narrow (8 m) channel at the northern entrance to the town, which was dug in 1936 at this narrowest, just 80m wide, part of the island to allow smaller boats, especially fishing boats, access to the waters of Kvarnerić. The channel is linked by a small movable bridge used by both pedestrians and vehicles, and is moved every day at 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. to allow passage for boats, which is best to always keep in mind so as to avoid the inevitable waiting.

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Great walk. Beautiful island and well marked trails. Highly recommended.
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Me and my family walked the whole route twice on our vacation. That says a lot!
John @johnny
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Lovely scenery. Cave Čampari was the highlight of the walk. Headlamps are a must!


• Via Apsyrtides trail system is intended for experienced mountain climbers and recreationists. The trails provide a basic level of walkability, without additional measures of safety and protection. Use these trails at your own risk!
• Rugged landscape and climatic conditions of the island can be challenging. Assess your fitness level well and wear appropriate footwear and clothing!
• Water availability in some villages is limited. Carry enough water with you!
• Your responsibility is to follow the laws and regulations of the Republic of Croatia related to nature protection, accommodation and respect for other people's property.
• Leave only footprints, take only memories! Dispose of garbage in the villages, in designated areas. Do not collect wild plants and do not disturb animals you come across! Keep the gates closed behind you!
• You are in an area of high wildfire risk. Lighting open fires is strictly forbidden!

• Convenience store: Jadranka convenience stores, Lidl (Omladinska Street 1/A), Konzum (Dražica 18B)
• Café: in Ćunski and Mali Lošinj
• Restaurant: in Ćunski and Mali Lošinj
• Pharmacy: in Nerezine (Smeraldo) and Mali Lošinj (Muškardin and Kaštel Fram)
• Physician: in Mali Lošinj
• ATM: in Mali Lošinj (in the centre, next to the Zagazine convenience store, Maxi convenience store, Cappelli Tourist Agency...)

Mind the strong Bura wind, especially in winter and pay attention to:

  • ticks
  • scorpions
  • wild animals (wild boar)
  • heat


  • GPS
  • water
  • waterfilter
  • mobile phone
  • headlamp

The section starts in Ćunski, complete with markings. After passing the post office, the path turns towards Zaosiri beach and leads to rocks that you will have to cross – this is the most demanding section so please be careful and walk slowly. You can use the public parking lot next to the St Nicholas parish church.